woodtypes

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WOOD SPECIES
page updated 3/27/00

ALDER: Hardwood that belongs to the birch family. Consistent color, stability and uniform acceptance of stains and finishes are three characteristics that have made Western Alder a preferred wood for unfinished furniture. Alder ranks second behind Oak in Hardwoods used in the unfinished furniture industry.

Tips for staining Alder: Alder is a closed pore wood and requires minimal sanding. It may be finished to look like cherry, maple, walnut and other hardwoods. Extra sanding on an end grain (end of the table top, etc.) will prevent excessive penetration of the stain coat.

ASPEN: Hardwood that belongs to the Populous Family. In its unfinished state, Aspen appears to have little or no grain. The nature grain appears after the stain has been applied. Aspen can be finished to look like cherry, walnut and other more expensive hard woods.

Tips for staining Aspen: limited sanding on surfaces. Extra sanding on edges to prevent stain penetration. A pre-stain controller is recommended. DO NOT use Min-Wax® other solvent based penetrating stains unless you use a stain controller. Surface stains like Old Dad's®, Carver tripp®, Beverly ®, and Zar® products are recommended.

PARAWOOD: Density: 7+ (Birch 7, Ash 8) Strength Group: S6 (same as maple)

Parawood is native to the Amazon Region of South America. Information can be traced back to Christopher Columbus. It was during his second visit to South America, that he wondered about the heavy black ball the natives were using in games. This ball was made from the vegetable gum of the Parawood tree. Later historians would marvel at the substance, which bounced so much when thrown to the ground it appeared to be alive. In the 19th Century Henry Wickham, of England, transported some seeds to England for germination. The resulting seedlings were then taken to the Malay Peninsula for planting, where began the great Rubber Plantations of Malaysia.

After 25 years of latex production, the tree ceases to produce sufficient quantities of latex. The tree is cut for processing in the manufacture of fine furniture and a new tree is planted in its place. This is an example off man’s ability to fully utilize our natural resources, without harming the environment.

PINE: Soft wood. The characteristics of "knotty" pine provide traditional warmth and individuality to each piece of furniture produced. Pines natural grain and shades give each piece its own unique personality, ensuring that no two pieces are alike.

Tips for staining Pine. End grain and spots that have been routed require extra sanding to prevent excessive penetration of stain. Knots in Pine furniture add color, interest and character; however they will "bleed" through washed or light finishes and they tend to darken with age. Always finish all surfaces including the bottom and inside with a clear coating of the finish coat.

Tips for staining Maple: The species of Maple that are used in unfinished furniture are relatively easy to finish and can be finished to look like walnut, cherry and other more expensive hardwoods. Maple does not have to be filled as it is a closed-pore wood. Extra sanding on edges to prevent stain penetration. Always finish all surfaces with at least a clear finish including the underside of tables and chairs as well as the inside of case pieces.

OAK: Hardwood can be of deciduous or evergreen trees. The moisture content of oak lumber must be carefully maintained between 6 & 8 % to prevent cracking and splitting.

Tips for finishing Oak. Almost any stain works well on Oak. Whenever you see a TV commercial on an interior stain the wood being finished will be oak. It is very important that Oak be finished completely top-bottom & inside-out. This prevents drying out of the piece and can prevent splitting and cracking as the piece ages. Danish oil finishes such as Watco® & Deft® work very well on Oak.

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