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DETAILED INSTRUCTION FOR STAINING UNFINISHED FURNITURE

page updated 3/27/00

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The process below is what we use for in-house hand finishing.
For more information go to our finish manufacturers web site

GENERAL FINISHES

OLD DAD'S BRAND

OVERVIEW:

We recommend 1 coat of stain (which includes wood sealer) over the whole piece and a second coat on the sides which are visible. One coat of polyurethane over the entire piece and 2 additional coats of polyurethane on sides that are visible.

BASIC ITEMS NEEDED:

1. Stain, with wood sealer combined.

2. Polyurethane

3. Sponge Brush

4. Rags to wipe stain and polyurethane.

5. Sandpaper 150 GRIT for OAK, PINE, 220 or finer for ALDER, ASPEN, MAPLE.

6. Tac cloth, to wipe up saw dust that settles between coats.

7. 600 grit wet or dry OR steel wool 0000.

ADDITIONAL ITEMS TO CONSIDER:

1. Plastic gloves

2. Drop cloth

3. Spray gun, small available at auto paint stores, for furniture with a lot of details.

4. Razor knife to remove glue spots.

DETAIL INSTRUCTIONS:

SANDING.

Furniture needs to be sanded according to type[e of wood. Palm sanders often save time. Spindles may stain darker because of the roughness (open grain). Table tops should be sanded with leaves in place to assure that the top is even. Table legs should be removed. Sand with grain. Use tac cloth to remove sanding particles. Doors should be sanded in place to assure proper closing. Remove any glue. Any maintenance should be done at this time.

Extra effort may be required on edges to prevent heavy stain penetration, due to open grain which may cause it to be darker than the rest of the furniture.

After sanding is complete move the furniture to a dust free environment, or construct a dust cover with plastic. Any knobs or hinges should be removed and kept in a safe place.

STAINING.

If left to set more than 48 hours before staining, humid conditions may cause the grain to rise after sanded. The first coat of stain should be applied to the entire piece, top bottom, inside. This will seal the wood. This needs to be done within 48 hours after sanding.

Do underneath, backs and bottoms and under shelf first.

Next apply stain to top and sides. Work stain in both directions. Wipe clean.

Be careful of inside edges and corners where stain may accumulate. Allow about 5 minutes before removing. This will allow the stain to thicken for easy removal. Blend these puddles with the wood grain.

For darker stains, one coat may be enough.

Wait 4 hours minimum or longer depending upon high humid conditions before applying a second coat.

A second coat of stain should be applied to tops, front and sides. Apply the stain then use 600 wet or dry to rub it in. Use the same method as before to lift the excess stain. Caution for corners again.

POLYURETHANE.

Wait 24 hours before applying polyurethane. The polyurethane will lift the stain slightly lightening the color. Use a tac cloth to remove any dust before applying polyurethane.

The longer you wait before applying polyurethane the less likely your stain will lift.

Apply polyurethane to back and bottoms first. This can be applied with a foam brush. Then use a cloth to wipe the excess.

Next apply to the tops, front and sides. Fold the cloth to fit on your finger tips so you can dip into the can. It is best to use plastic gloves.

It is best to lay the furniture on side and work on a flat surface. Especially after the first coat. If this cannot be done, use a new cloth to wipe sides to avoid drips.

The second coat of polyurethane should be applied after the first coat is dry. No less than 4 hours.

Allow longer drying time in high humidity.

If more than 24 hours elapse steel wool the furniture lightly before applying the second coat.

You will notice the polyurethane will go on easy after the first coat so be careful of drips.

For table tops and counters we recommend 5 coats of polyurethane and on areas where more protection is needed.

TIPS:

1. When staining in areas where the temperature is colder such as garages and cellars, stain and polyurethane takes longer to dry.

2. To avoid missing spots use good lighting.

3. Use masking tape around masonite to avoid drips. If you desire to stain masonite, do last. Masonite absorbs stain like a sponge. This will insure you will have enough to finish the outside from the same can. Caution, luan panels also absorbs stain like a sponge.

4. Our stain, OLD DADS, stains are made from the same base. If your stain is to light or dark some adjusting to colors may be made. This is the same with polyurethane. If more gloss is desired it is not to late.

5. The first coat of polyurethane will lighten the stain. You will notice the color of the stain on the rag. This method is also used to lighten the stain.

6. Work in a well ventilated area. Have a fan blowing in the OPPOSITE direction from your work. The fumes may cause headaches and dizziness.

7. When finishing roll top desks, remove tambour for finishing. Return to desk after it is completely finished. Rub edge with candle wax before installing.

8. Sand drawer guides and rub with candle wax to make it easier to slide drawer in and out.

9. Time and patience are the keys to a professional finish.

PAINTING FURNITURE:

Prepare the wood surface using 220 or 280 grit until smooth. Once or twice is adequate. Again, sand with the grain to prevent scratches.

Use steel wool grade 0000 to smooth out any roughness left by the sandpaper. Then use a tac cloth to pick up any saw dust or steel particles left behind.

Shellac the entire piece with white pigment shellac in order to insure that the piece is properly sealed and primed.

Lightly sand with fine sandpaper (220 or 280). wipe with a tack cloth to remove any residue.

Brush on 1 or 2 coats of your choice of oil base paint.

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